Meditations on Masala: An Objective Analysis and Deconstruction of Propositions Pertaining to the Equivalence of Veg. Biryani and Pulao

 

Meditations on Masala: An Objective Analysis and Deconstruction of Propositions Pertaining to the Equivalence of Veg. Biryani and Pulao

Student; Expert in Vegetarian Foods and Consumption there of

 

Abstract: In recent years, the long-standing debate on the validity of Vegetarian Biryani and its supposed redundancy due to claims of the dish being the same as Pulao has accelerated. Many proponents of this stance seek to invalidate the concept of Veg. Biryani, as it is claimed to undermine the sanctity of the “traditional” meat-based Biryanis. In this publication, we will explore and analyse the histories and preparation methods of these two dishes and definitively answer the question that has been posed: “Is Veg. Biryani the same thing as Pulao?”

I.                DEFINING “BIRYANI” AND “PULAO”

 

For anyone who has ever been a part of, or has witnessed, any of the famous culinary debates, it would have become increasingly apparent that defining the terms (names of dishes/processes) used in the debate were the greatest challenge faced by the debaters. In fact, this may be the root cause of such debates. One need not look any further than these examples: Is a hotdog a sandwich? Is cereal a soup? The answers to these questions depend overwhelmingly on the definitions of sandwich or soup.

However, in the current state of affairs, most publications seem to agree on the key terms included in the definitions of both Biryani and Pulao. This fact lends itself greatly to definitively answering the primary question.

Biryani is a South Asian dish consisting of rice (typically basmati) cooked with a variety of spices and layered with meat (such as chicken, mutton, or fish), vegetables, or eggs.

Pulao, also known as pilaf or pilau, is a rice dish where rice is sautéed and then cooked with spices and stock, along with vegetables and sometimes meat or fish.

One might already begin to notice the clear distinctions between the two dishes based solely on the definitions. The simple fact that they have differing definitions serves as a gateway into exploring the divergence between Veg. Biryani and Pulao.

 

II.             THE HISTORIES OF BIRYANI AND PULAO

 

Biryani’s inception is generally regarded to have been in the Indian subcontinent, particularly among Muslim communities. Although its exact origins are unclear, it is believed to have developed in various places across North and South India (which had strong Muslim influences), such as: Delhi, Lucknow, Hyderabad, Kerela, Telangana, Karnataka, and Tamil Nadu. Of course, there are also numerous legends surrounding the origin of Biryani. The most famous among these attributes the creation of the dish to Mumtaz Mahal, Shah Jahan’s wife. It is said that she had requested her chefs to formulate a nutritious dish for Mughal soldiers, resulting in the birth of Biryani.

The origins of Pulao are equally, if not more, unclear. Certain sources claim that its roots are in ancient India, with mentions of the dish’s preparations in the Mahabharata epic. Others speculate that its development initiated in Afghanistan/Uzbekistan, or in Persia. The earliest documented recipe comes from the 10th-century Persian scholar Avicenna, who dedicated a section to preparing various types of “pilafs” in his medical texts.

Interestingly, the histories of both these dishes seem to be intertwined. Pulao is generally considered to be older than Biryani – which is believed to have evolved from Pulao. By most accounts, Pulao is seen as originating in Central/South Asia (as mentioned before) and being brought to India, where its recipe fused with local flavours, spices, and cooking techniques, eventually diverging and morphing into Biryani. The two continued to develop independently, with variations of each being brought to fruition throughout the years.

The key takeaway from this retrospective is that Biryani seems to have gained its distinction from Pulao as the processes for preparing the dish diverged, indicating that Biryani’s identity is primarily process-based, not ingredient-based. There is a mention of changing ingredients, however, when it comes to the spices used. This, along with the processes, will be discussed in the upcoming sections.

III.           PREPERATION OF BIRYANI VS PULAO

A generic preparation of Biryani typically involves:

1. Marinating meat (if using) with yogurt, spices (such as turmeric, red chili powder, garam masala), and herbs (like mint and coriander) for 1-2 hours.
2. Partially cooking basmati rice with whole spices (cardamom, cinnamon, cloves, bay leaves) in a separate pot.
3. Preparing a base of fried onions, ginger-garlic paste, and ground spices (cumin, coriander).
4. Layering partially cooked rice and marinated meat or vegetables.
5. Adding saffron-infused milk and cooking on low heat to allow flavours to meld.

A generic preparation for Pulao typically involves:

1. Sautéing whole spices (cumin seeds, cardamom, cinnamon) in ghee or oil.
2. Adding onions, ginger-garlic paste, and vegetables. Some variations add fish or meat too.
3. Adding washed and soaked basmati rice to the pot.
4. Adding water or stock, salt, and sometimes a touch of garam masala.
5. Cooking until the rice is fully done, then letting it rest before serving.

Key differences in preparation:

1. Layering: Biryani uses a layering technique, while pulao is cooked as a one-pot dish.
2. Cooking method: Biryani often uses slow cooking, while pulao is typically cooked using the absorption method.
3. Spice intensity: Biryani generally uses more complex and intense spice combinations (including saffron) compared to pulao's simpler spice profile.
4. Rice cooking: In biryani, rice is partially cooked separately before layering, while in pulao, rice cooks with the other ingredients.
5. Marination: Biryani often involves marinating meat or vegetables, which is not typical for pulao.

As shown above, it is clear that the primary differences between Biryani and Pulao arise not from ingredients used (with the exception of spices), but from the way they are prepared. This serves as the basis for labelling Veg. Biryani as authentic Biryani and allows us to differentiate it from Pulao. Veg. Biryani makes use of the same techniques of marinating vegetables; using a base of fried onions, ginger-garlic paste, and ground spices; and, partially cooking rice and layering it with the other ingredients. Veg. Biryani also makes use of the same spices as other types of Biryanis, with differences only being region specific. Ergo, Veg. Biryani meets all the criteria for being authentic Biryani and fails to qualify as a type of Pulao.

 

IV.           THE HISTORY OF VEG. BIRYANI

 

In strict contrast with the misconception that Veg. Biryani is a modern invention that was forced into the mold of “traditional” meat-based Biryanis, the development of the vegetarian counterpart seems to have emerged not long after the spread of the inceptive versions of the dish.

A prevalent theory suggests that Veg. Biryani originated in India during the rule of the Nizams (Muslim rulers). According to Chef Hussain Shahzad (who works with popular Mumbai restaurants The Bombay Canteen and O Pedro), “Vegetarian biryani came into being when the Nizams of Mysore hired bookkeepers,” he added. These bookkeepers were Hindus by faith and followed vegetarian diets. In order for them to be fed, the royal kitchens had to incorporate their dishes into the menu. This would have occurred during the 18^th or 19^th centuries. Other versions of the dish would also arise as a response to local preferences in taste or culture.

It is important to note here that during the evolution of Biryani into its vegetarian forms, the cooking practices and spice compositions remained in accordance with that of the original Biryani. As mentioned previously, this would have still qualified the early Veg. Biryanis (and its modern descendants) as authentic Biryani. The evolution may be analogous to breeds of dogs: the selective breeding of domestic dogs intended as pets do not make them any less of a dog.

 

V.              CONCLUSION

 

Through careful analysis of the origins, evolution, and preparation of Biryani and Pulao, as well as the development of Veg. Biryani, it is evident that Biryani is a process-oriented dish and differentiates itself from Pulao in that regard. As Veg. Biryani follows the identical primary processes to any other type of Biryani- and given the fact that its origins can be traced back to the 18^th and 19^th centuries- it must be concluded to be authentic Biryani and excluded form the category of Pulao.

It is apparent that, in many cases, trying to exclude vegetarians from the experience of savouring Biryani is merely that – an act of exclusion. Making an Us and a Them based on arbitrary categories that We created. We are as much made of the Universe as we are a part of it. We are ultimately included. So, despite our arbitrary categories serving practical use in day-to-day life, when it calls into question this ultimate inclusion, we must seek to reject the category.

But, even within these arbitrary categories: Veg. Biryani is Biryani, not Pulao.

 

VI.           BIBLIOGRAPHY

 

1.     https://ijarsct.co.in/Paper13412.pdf

2.     https://www.vice.com/en/article/vegetarian-biryani-food-history-travel-cuisine/

3.     https://www.britannica.com/topic/biryani

4.     https://www.perplexity.ai/search/have-there-been-studies-done-o-2VU1Yjk_T_OtZFcrhEyd.A

5.     https://www.thespruceeats.com/all-about-biryani-1957507